South Korean scientists recreate an ancient marine silk once reserved for emperors
Researchers revive the legendary golden “sea silk,” uncovering the science behind its glow and its link to a near-extinct Mediterranean shellfish.
A team of South Korean scientists has successfully recreated an exclusive textile material that, in ancient times, was reserved for emperors and the highest-ranking authorities.
The research was led by Prof. Dong-so Hwang of POSTECH, officially known as Pohang University of Science and Technology, and Prof. Jimin Choi of the Korea Institute of Environmental Research.
A golden fiber from the sea
The researchers reproduced a shimmering golden fiber similar to the one used more than 2,000 years ago. Their version comes from the shell of Atrina pectinata, a large pen shell clam farmed in South Korea’s coastal waters.
Their findings were published in the journal Advanced Materials.
The material is known as sea silk, sometimes called the “golden fiber of the sea.” In the days of the Roman Empire, it was one of the most valuable textiles in the world. It was reserved for figures of immense power, including emperors and even popes.
Historically, sea silk was made from the byssus threads produced by Pinna nobilis, a massive Mediterranean mollusk. The shellfish uses these silky filaments to anchor itself to rocks on the seafloor. Skilled artisans harvested and spun the fibers into a luminous fabric prized for its natural golden glow.
An endangered tradition
Over time, marine pollution and environmental degradation decimated populations of Pinna nobilis, pushing the species to the brink of extinction. As a result, the European Union banned its collection entirely.
Today, authentic sea silk is produced only in tiny quantities by a handful of traditional craftspeople, making it one of the rarest textiles on Earth.
The secret behind the shine
The POSTECH team turned its attention to Atrina pectinata. Like its Mediterranean cousin, the clam produces byssus threads to cling to surfaces. Researchers found that these fibers share strikingly similar physical and chemical properties with the original sea silk.
Building on that discovery, they developed a processing method that allows the filaments to be treated and woven into a fabric closely resembling the ancient textile.
The study also sheds light on why sea silk can retain its glow for centuries. The color does not come from dyes. Instead, it is the result of structural coloration, a phenomenon that occurs when light interacts with microscopic structures in the material.
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