The most exclusive restaurant in the world? Invite-only dining, secret hours and chef’s choice menu
Sugalabo in Nagoya uses only the finest ingredients sourced from the best, independent organic suppliers. A strict door policy makes eating there almost impossible.
Revered the world over for it’s innovation and meticulous attention to detail, Japan doesn’t do anything by halves - and that also applies to their deep love and appreciation of food.
For good reason, Japan is one of the world leaders when it comes to cuisine - and not just their own traditional gastronomy but cuisines from different countries and cultures from all corners of the globe.
Which countries have the most Michelin stars?
It recently overtook Italy to become the second country with the most Michelin stars behind France (793) - Japan totaled 459 in June 2025 with Italy just behind with 449. But the city with the most stars, dished out by the Michelin Guide to restaurants for “high-quality cooking, worth stopping by” (Cuisine de qualité, mérite une halte) is Tokyo.
The sprawling metropolis, home to 14 million inhabitants, boasts a total of 251 stars shared out between 194 restaurants. Tokyo also leads the world in three-star restaurants.
Among them is Joël Robuchon, named after the ‘emperor of French cuisine’ and “Chef of the Century” who passed away, aged 73, in August 2018.
One of Robuchon‘s disciples has taken the baton and strives for the same elite level of perfection that the French chef was known for. Yosuke Suga worked for Joël Robuchon for 16 years, until he reached the point where it was time to open his a place of his own.
Only the finest ingredients, harvested in peak season
Suga opened Sugalabo, a gastronomic laboratory in the city of Nagoya - 346 km west of Tokyo in 2015. The concept behind Sugalabo was to source the very best local produce and use it in its freshest state - which means no freezing, no preservatives, no additives.
Only the best quality fish and seafood cooked or finely sliced for sashimi on the same day it was caught. Likewise, the best quality, prime cuts of meat from recently slaughtered livestock.
And as for fruit and vegetables - only those that are in season and at their peak moment, ie. neither harvested too early nor too late. For example, each of the six to eight varieties of peach feature on the menu for one week only to guarantee maximum ripeness, flavor and juiciness.
Rice is cooked to perfection, using the technique and guidelines which Joël Robuchon developed - each grain distinct, with small holes dotting the surface. The variety of rice used at the restaurant is grown in Sugalabo’s own rice field.
It’s a laborious process which involves a great deal of traveling and networking with suppliers. Which is why Suga‘s team take three days off a month to source only the premium quality ingredients.
Connoisseurs only
The main thing that makes Sugalabo different from the rest is its exclusivity. Not anyone can dine there - there is a small, select list of patrons and “no first-time customers are allowed without introduction and invitation”.
And don’t bother looking up the phone number online, it’s an ex-directory number - private and only available to the 20 or so patrons who visit to savor Sugalabo’s exquisite dishes every month. Suga goes to great lengths to explain that there are several reasons why they keep a short client list, adding, “It’s not that we’re trying to be snobby”.
Despite it’s exclusivity, an evening at Sugalabo isn’t extortionate by high-end cuisine standards, and considering the quality of the food served. The menu would set you back somewhere around $500 - with wine and service fees on top. But that’s only if you were able to actually get through the door, which for the majority of people is next to impossible.
Fortunately, gourmands seeking the very best fusion of luxury and creative dining can get to taste Yosuke san’s creations at another of his restaurants - Sugalabo V in Osaka, which is an extension of the Nagoya establishment.
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