Rising temperatures and worsening drought are reshaping agriculture in Provence, where one unexpected crop is emerging as a promising long-term alternative.
French farmers, with their backs against the wall, are turning to growing ‘green gold’: “The climate here is changing even faster”
French farmer Benoît Dufay told Belgian newspaper De Morgen that the pace of change has exceeded even scientific expectations.
“Since 2018, we’ve seen that the climate here has changed even faster than scientists predicted,” he said.
Why pistachios are thriving in Provence
Dufay farms in La Bastidonne, a village of fewer than 1,000 residents in Provence, close to the Mediterranean Sea. The region is widely regarded as one of Europe’s climate change hotspots, where rising temperatures and prolonged drought are arriving sooner and with greater intensity than elsewhere in France.
“Combined with more severe drought, it’s turning the region upside down,” Dufay said. “In agriculture, we’re constantly monitoring how conditions are evolving.”
One tree, however, appears to be benefiting.
The wild pistachio, originally native to the plateaus of Iran, reached the Mediterranean centuries ago through the Romans before largely disappearing during the 19th century. Now, warmer and drier conditions are helping it make an unexpected comeback.
“The tree loves sunshine and hates having wet feet, so dry, rocky soil suits it perfectly,” Dufay explained. “At the same time, it needs wind for pollination.”
Even the mistral – the powerful, dry wind that often damages other crops in southeastern France – has become an advantage for pistachio growers. According to Dufay, the region’s changing climate has created conditions that would likely have been impossible just 50 years ago.
Farmers are making a long-term pistachio bet
As drought places increasing pressure on vineyards, more French farmers are turning to pistachios despite the patience required.
Farmers Émilie and Fabien have already begun replacing their vines with pistachio trees.
“Last summer we harvested our first crop: four kilograms, still not enough to sell,” they said. “Pistachios are a long-term investment.”
The couple noted that the trees typically take six to seven years to produce a meaningful harvest and don’t become commercially profitable until they’ve been growing for around 10 to 12 years.
Their optimism comes as pistachios continue to surge in popularity worldwide, helped by viral food trends including pistachio cream-filled chocolate that first gained attention in Dubai before spreading across TikTok. For many growers in Provence, that growing demand could eventually make the lengthy wait worthwhile.
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